🔗 Share this article

Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might expect familiar high-end venues. Yet, tucked prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a outlying part of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This little Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has made the family completely astonished.

“I’m completely shocked,” says a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s dedication that led to their modest restaurant securing such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a popular spot, has retained much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the fare, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent quality.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, toastier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can start at many times that price.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this culinary triumph.